Something for the Weekend: 30.06.24
Danny McCubbin's The Good Kitchen, the weeks media consumption, and a recipe for Fadi Kattan’s barbecued whole chicken
Before I get to the nitty gritty of this week’s Something for the Weekend a little plug for an upcoming event I’ll be hosting with Danny McCubbin at Lawson Flats in Perth on 11th July with WA Good Food Guide.
Although he’s an Australian, Danny may be more well known to UK readers as the founder of The Good Kitchen in Sicily. After working with Jamie Oliver for almost twenty years Danny ventured out on his own, drawn to Mussomeli by one of many schemes that sell houses for €1. That’s a story in itself. Danny set up The Good Kitchen, which is about much more than food, with a wider remit for social connection and training.
We’ll be chatting about his fantastic new book (The Good Kitchen, Melbourne Books), a little on life in London at the heart of the Jamie Oliver empire, his social enterprise epiphany, and what brought him to life in Sicily. If you’re not in Perth there’ll be more at Between Meals very soon, but if you are it’ll be a great chat and chance to check out Lawson Flats for those who haven’t had the pleasure.
Image: Ros Atkinson
Eating…
While my piece earlier in the week - the question I now ask myself in truffle season: is this the year I cook Analiese Gregory's potato and black truffle gallette? - may have given the impression that winter is all about eating copious amounts of truffle, this week has been characterized by two things that are far from it.
As I’d noted the other week it’s soup weather, the consumption of which has been unabated. Shout out to Sarah’s watercress and potato number.
The second is oyster sauce. I often add fish sauce to dishes for salt and depth often where it’s not asked for. I’ll often say to Sarah, can you guess the secret ingredient? Invariably the reply is a matter of fact, fish sauce. Most likely not out of taste but because I have a habit of repeating the same schtick again and again. Note to self: must write new material.
The oyster sauce, which I’d forgotten was lurking in the pantry cupboard has found its way to the front and is getting a run well beyond the stir fry it was brought out for. Pasta sauces and all manner of dishes get a glug from sparing to whoa-easy-mate.
Reading, Watching, Listening…
Anna Jones probably needs no introduction, and if she does you can thank me once you’ve Googled her and then bought her books. Anna was ahead of the curve and has had a newsletter for about 10 years. She has just migrated across to Substack which is great as I can now catch her in the app.
I particularly identified with Anna’s most recent post talking about 10 years in food publishing, albeit she’s been in food for 21 years (and incidentally she has a recipe in Danny’s book, The Good Kitchen). Writing about a dinner she attended with a group of up and coming food influencers she wrote that “the overwhelming feeling was how Barry Manilow might feel at a Taylor Swift concert. Mixed. Pleased to be there, but a little off the pace. How could there be so many new voices in food in such a short time? It was equally thrilling and terrifying.”
The WA Good Food Guide (of which I’m editor) recently launched its first podcast Paper, Scissors, Stock, hosted by our Editor in Chief, Georgia Moore. I particularly loved episode two with rising star Sofika Boulton.
I’ve been waiting patiently for the new Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats album South of Here to drop. Literally watching the Spotify release counter tick down. I’ve not anticipated a release for a while, finding albums from artists that I love on or after release. The same goes for Love Changes Everything from the Dirty Three. Anticipation with art (as it is with food) is a part of the enjoyment that I think I’ve lost in the digital age.
Fadi Kattan’s barbecued whole chicken
A month or so ago I published a few recipes from Bethlehem by Fadi Kattan. They really struck a chord with you, and it’s lovely to hear that many of you have bought the book or earmarked it for the future either for yourself or someone close. Job done. Here’s one last recipe that’s perfect for northern hemisphere summers or clear winter days in Australia.
Image: Ashley Lima
The sight of mouthwatering charcoal-grilled barbecued chicken is common in Palestine. On sunny days, every household begins barbecuing whole chickens marinated in beautiful local flavors. At the same time, in every town, there is at least one restaurant renowned for its barbecued chicken. In Bethlehem, it is Qabar restaurant in Beit Jala. It was established in 1974 and is still one of the most popular places. I grew up going there to pick up some chicken to bring home to enjoy with bread and a simple salad.
SERVES 4
80 ml / ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
60 ml / ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ground sumac
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
Peel of 1 white or black loumi (dried lime), grated with a Microplane
1 whole chicken, about 1½ kg / 3⅓ pounds, spatchcocked
TO FINISH
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 green chilli, sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon ground sumac
In a large nonreactive bowl, mix together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, sumac, red pepper flakes, cumin, cinnamon, allspice, and grated loumi. Add the chicken and rub the mix all over it. If you don’t plan to barbecue immediately, cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight.
To barbecue on a charcoal or gas grill, prepare the grill with a hot zone and a cooler zone. Place the chicken, skin side up, on the cooler side, with the legs facing the hotter side. Cover the grill and cook until the chicken is mostly done, 40 to 45 minutes. Carefully flip the chicken and place it on the hotter side of the grill, skin side down, to crisp the skin and finish cooking the chicken, another 10 to 15 minutes. It should take 50 to 60 minutes total.
To cook in the oven, preheat the oven to 220°C / 425°F. Preheat a skillet over medium-high heat on the stove.
Put the chicken in the skillet, skin side up. Sear for about 4 minutes, then flip the chicken over. Sear on the second side for about 4 minutes. Continue flipping the chicken until you have charred the skin.
Transfer the chicken to a baking sheet, skin side up, add a drizzle of olive oil, and roast for another 25 to 30 minutes, to fully cook through.
Remove from the heat of the grill or oven and let rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the garlic, chilli, olive oil, lemon juice, and sumac. Drizzle over the chicken, cut into pieces, and serve.
This is an edited extract from Bethlehem by Fadi Kattan (Hardie Grant Books, RRP AUD $55). Available in stores nationally from 17 May 2024.