In the playbook of how to boost your online traffic, top of the list, or close, must be the commandment to divide your audience on a seemingly innocuous topic. Get them to take a side it surely says, because that’s how we deal with discourse on anything these days - by division.
And so, in a purely cynical move, I’m writing to you today to say that I’m pro pineapple on my pizza, and on yours (because that’s something else we do: tell people what they should like). Call it Hawaiian, call it ham and pineapple, call it what you will, I’m all in. Are you with me?
It’s one of those topics that you can spin an easy article out of - this is surely enough proof but do Google if you want more. Step one is usually to add a few outraged Italians. I won’t be doing that here but feel free to jump in the comments if you are outraged, Italian or otherwise.
I’ve never quite understood that outrage, and wondered whether there’s a big Italian group chat somewhere which has instructed all those who identify as coming from somewhere in lo Stivale to play along for shits and giggles (or whatever the Italian version of that is). I say this because I’ve had Nutella on a pizza, in Italy, which seems somewhat unconventional if you’re a purist. Although I have also eaten Nutella at the Vatican. so there’s perhaps some kind of divine hall pass for that one. The whole issue of dessert pizza, and indeed Nutella, is something for another day.
Back to stoking outrage for a moment. It could be argued that pizza isn’t even Italian. Yes, the modern incarnation is said to have originated in Naples in the 1800s but the Egyptians, the Greeks, and yes the Romans topped their flatbreads with all manner of things. That is said by some to be pizzas origin story. And do you think if, say, the Romans had pineapples (they didn’t) that they wouldn’t use them to this end? Discuss.
Your takeaway from this may be, Max just said that pizza is Egyptian, but I’m merely saying there’s a thread. The origins of the Hawaiian are more certain, and they are actually Greek, albeit not of the ancient variety. In 1962 Sam Panopoulos, a Greek born Canadian, took inspiration from both a trip to Naples and the trend to Americanize things like Chinese food, creating the Hawaiian at the Satellite Restaurant in Chatham-Kent, Ontario. The name was inspired by the brand of canned pineapple used, Hawaiian. Apparently it’s a source of national pride, with Canadian PM Justin Trudeau having tweeted “I have a pineapple. I have a pizza. And I stand behind this delicious Southwestern Ontario creation” in response to pineapple-gate back in 2017.
Back to the present day and pizza has become more of a staple in our house since I was sent the Gozney Roccbox, which now seems to be on permanent loan (#gifted). For all our attempts at what could be termed as serious pizza, it’s the Hawaiian requested (erm, demanded) by my four year old nephew that has been a standout. So much so that recently while interviewing Perth based chef Paul Bentley - who has spent much of his career in New York and Mexico - I got into the question of Ananas comosus. Any opportunity to raise my pineapple game will be taken.
You can read the full interview at the West Australian Good Food Guide, but I can report Bentley is “pro pineapple all the way.” I’ve been discussing the Hawaiian at Casa Pizzeria for a number of months and on our most recent chat he said that it’s gone through a number of iterations. “It’s made with northern Italian speck,” he says. “So there’s that smoky cured ham, and then a habanero, pineapple salsa, almost like a gastrique [a sweet, sour sauce] but not as sweet. So, it’s got fruitiness and the heat from the habaneros, and then the pineapple, red base and fior di latte.” I mean, come on, if you’re not tempted by that!
The only question now is, are you with me?
I live and write on Wadandi Boodja, home to the Wadandi people, Traditional Owners of this corner of south west Australia. Saltwater people, their connection to land and sea is deep, and continuous. I acknowledge their elders past, present and emerging.
I am with you, Max! With you all the way. After 20 years of living in Italy, I can only say that when it comes to the Italian food police there is literally no rhyme or reason to the things that can cause outrage! Fig and prosciutto on pizza are totally acceptable (and delicious). I've even seen apple on pizza here. So why not pineapple? Pizza should be the kind of thing you can feel free to put anything on (and indeed here, really anything -- other than pineapple -- goes. There's a pizzeria near Bologna that puts tortellini on their pizza and there's a place in Pistoia that does sushi pizza and every average pizzeria in Italy has frankfurters and french fries as a topping option!
I just came back from an event where I was listening to Nancy Silverton talk about her career and (to a room full of Italians) explain why she has a pineapple pizza on her menu -- it was her late son's favourite pizza when he was little and she wanted to do a grown up version that she would eat (it sounds very much like the one you describe, hers has speck, fresh pineapple and jalapeno peppers). When she also explained "food always tastes better with a story" I think that also pinpoints why, for me, anything has the potential to go on pizza if if it has a meaningful story behind it.
Hi
Actually I never tasted a pizza with pineapple, it never happened but I tasted one with beef teriyaki and sesame seeds that was pretty tasty. That only because it’s extremely rare for me order a pizza when I’m not in Italy, I always looking for local food for me it’s insane eating a pizza if I’m in Vienna, London, Paris etc. I’m sure that they cook a great pizza but if I have only few lunch/dinner in a place I need to know that I have eaten all the local food possible.
I’m Italian and you have to consider that we are a country full of contradictions only 50yrs ago our breakfast was salty in particular for farmers they started the day with caffè, pancetta (bacon) or salami and boiled eggs it was more similar to a dinner or lunch. Now our breakfast is made principally with sweet things croissants, biscuits, porridges, cake etc. and always with caffè, milk, juice or other.
We never understand how foreign people could drink a cappuccino with pasta or t-bone etc. but when we go in Uk what we order?? Cappuccino with English breakfast, we also have a rules about don’t take cappuccino after the 11am.
We are focused on flavour when u eat a dish u have to taste each ingredient, we always looking for the best ingredients like the best mozzarella, the best tomatoes I always thought and I still thinking that if u buy ingredients that don’t give u joy u are doing something wrong.
Plus u have to consider that in the other countries if u want to save a recipe u simply write it down on a piece of paper, in Italy we register it at the chamber of commerce to be sure that our recipes and memories wouldn’t be lost but will be always preserved.
Going back to pizza we put figs jam on it, or if u check on ChefTable Pizza edition there is a Chef that serve fried pizza with apricot and ricotta. I don’t think there is something bad putting pineapple on pizza if u use good ingredients if it taste good, everyone can interpreting recipes as you see fit can combine them with your own traditions, creating something unique and different.
I’m not perfect still when I see Jamie Oliver cooking the “original Bolognese” with rosemary I feel like someone gave to me a punch in the stomach, how I said we are full of contractions 😂😂.
U know what we don’t have in Italy? Recipes of new generations, in Uk u are full of Brit people of second/third gen. the book “Mother Tongue” is a good example. In Italy we still don’t have it and honestly I can’t wait to see how our recipes will change through the yrs.